Installation Manual

Installation Manual

MOUNTING
GUIDE

Everything you need to install your Untamed Holds safely and correctly — from wall preparation and hardware selection to setting your first route.

Bolt-On Screw-On M10 T-Nut Metric Step-by-Step
Before You Begin

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Gather everything listed below before you start. The right kit makes installation faster, safer, and more precise.

T-Bar / Hex Key
10mm hex key for tightening holds — or use a drill on a low torque setting
Power Drill
For drilling T-nut holes & pilot holes
12mm Drill Bit
Standard bit for T-nut holes in 18mm ply
M10 T-Nuts
4-prong steel T-nuts, one per hole
M10 Bolts
Length = hold depth + board thickness
Hammer
To seat 4-prong T-nuts flush into ply
Tape Measure
For measuring hold depth & bolt length
Safety Glasses
Required during all drilling and hammering
Step 1

WALL PREPARATION

01

Choose the Right Plywood

Use 18mm structural plywood rated for your wall angle. This is the only acceptable substrate — anything thinner, or OSB and particle board, will not hold T-nuts securely under climbing loads.

18mm STRUCTURAL PLYWOOD 18mm ✓ RECOMMENDED
18mm structural ply is the industry standard for climbing walls.
Pro Tip

If mounting panels over solid concrete, frame them out at least 50mm away from the backing surface to allow room for bolt protrusion behind each T-nut.

02

Lay Out Your T-Nut Grid

Mark a consistent grid pattern across your panel before drilling. The standard spacing is 200mm × 200mm, which gives you excellent route-setting flexibility across all angles and difficulties.

200mm 200mm
200mm × 200mm grid — the standard for home and commercial climbing walls.
Step 2

INSTALLING T-NUTS

03

Drill Your Holes

Using a 12mm drill bit, drill straight through each marked point on your panel. Keep the drill perfectly perpendicular to the surface — angled holes cause the T-nut to sit off-axis, reducing thread engagement and weakening the connection significantly.

12mm BIT KEEP DRILL 90° PERPENDICULAR TO PANEL SURFACE
Drill perfectly square — even a few degrees of angle will compromise T-nut strength.
04

Seat the T-Nuts

Flip the panel face-down on a clean, flat surface. Insert each 4-prong M10 T-nut into a hole from the back face and strike squarely with a hammer until the flange sits completely flush. The four prongs must bite fully into the wood grain. Off-centre strikes angle the T-nut and leave it loose.

PANEL FLIPPED FACE-DOWN FLUSH
The flange must sit completely flush — no gap, no rocking.
Critical

A T-nut that spins freely when you try to thread a bolt into it has completely failed. Do not climb on that hold. Remove, replace, and re-seat the T-nut before continuing.

Step 3

MOUNTING BOLT-ON HOLDS

Bolt Length Formula
L ≥ D(hold) + 18mm + 6mm
Measure the depth of the hold's bolt hole, add 18mm for the plywood, then add at least 6mm so the bolt protrudes past the back of the T-nut. Always round up to the next available bolt length — a bolt that's too short provides no holding power. M10 bolts are available in 5mm increments; select the next size up when your calculation falls between sizes.
05

Thread the Bolt Through the Hold

Insert the M10 bolt through the hold's centre hole. Position the hold over the T-nut and start threading by hand for the first few turns to make sure it's aligned. Once it's running smoothly you can use a drill on a low, slow setting to bring it up.

HOLD FLAT BASE BOLT M10 18mm PLY T-NUT (M10)
Always start threading by hand — feel for resistance to confirm correct alignment.
06

Rotate & Tighten the Hold

Once the bolt is running freely, orient the hold to the angle you want, then tighten up with a T-bar, hex key, or drill on a low torque setting. The hold should feel solid and not rotate under pressure — snug is the goal, not maximum force. Natural rock holds are tough but there's no need to go overboard.

Good to Know

A drill is fine on a low torque setting — just don't crank it up to full power. If you're using a T-bar, firm hand pressure is all you need. The hold is ready when it sits flat and doesn't shift.

Alternative Method

SCREW-ON HOLDS

Screw-on holds are typically smaller footholds or texture features. They fix directly into the plywood with two screws and do not require T-nuts.

A

Pre-Drill Pilot Holes

Mark the two screw positions on the panel. Drill 5–6mm pilot holes to prevent the plywood from splitting under load. Pilot holes must be slightly narrower than your screws for a secure bite.

B

Drive the Screws

Use 50–65mm structural wood screws or decking screws. A drill works fine — just ease off as the screw beds in to avoid stripping the head. Screws must penetrate at least 25mm into solid wood behind the panel face. Never substitute drywall screws — they are brittle and will snap under climbing loads.

Rule

Screw-on holds perform best on vertical walls and slabs up to 30°. For steeper overhangs, bolt-on holds are the safe choice — the higher forces will pull screw-ons off the wall over time.

Reference

HARDWARE SPECIFICATIONS

Component Specification Notes
T-Nut Thread M10 × 1.5 Industry standard for climbing walls
T-Nut Type 4-Prong Zinc-Plated Indoor use; stainless steel for humid environments
Hole Diameter 12mm Allows T-nut barrel to seat flush
Bolt Thread M10 × 1.5 Must match T-nut threading precisely
Bolt Head 10mm Hex (Allen) Socket cap head bolts recommended
Plywood 18mm Structural No OSB, MDF, or particle board
T-Nut Grid Spacing 200mm × 200mm Standard offset grid for route setting
Screw-On Screws 50–65mm Wood Screws Structural or deck screws only — NOT drywall
Min. Bolt Protrusion ≥ 6mm past T-nut Full thread engagement required
Panel Frame Clearance ≥ 50mm Gap behind panel for bolt protrusion
Ongoing Maintenance

SAFETY & INSPECTION

Good Habit

Give your holds a quick visual check before each session — it only takes a minute and keeps everything climbing well. If something looks off, just take it down and sort it before getting on the wall.

Reference

HOLD TYPE OVERVIEW

Understanding hold types helps when planning your layout and grading your routes.

✊
Jugs
Full-hand grip. Perfect for beginners and warm-up routes.
👆
Crimps
Shallow lip. Tests finger strength and precision.
🤚
Slopers
Rounded, no defined edge. Demands body tension.
🤏
Pinches
Squeeze with thumb and fingers. Great for strength training.
👇
Pockets
1–3 finger holes. Sport climbing finger training.
🔼
Underclings
Upside-down grip. Common at overhang transitions.
Common Questions

FAQ

Can I mount Untamed Holds on concrete or brick?
Yes — for concrete or masonry you will need expansion anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors) drilled with a masonry bit. The same M10 × 1.5 thread standard applies. Confirm each anchor is rated for the intended load and fully seated and tested before use.
How tight should I tighten the bolts?
Snug is the goal — tight enough that the hold doesn't rotate under load, but you don't need to go flat out. A drill on a low torque setting works well, as does a T-bar with firm hand pressure. Overtightening can strip T-nut threads so there's no benefit to going harder than needed.
My T-nut is spinning — what do I do?
Stop climbing on that hold immediately. Push the failed T-nut out from the front face, flip the panel, and seat a new one from the back. If the hole has enlarged, fill with wood glue and a hardwood plug, allow to cure fully (24 hours minimum), then re-drill and re-install.
How many holds per square metre?
A 200mm grid gives you 25 T-nut positions per m². A good starting density for general climbing is 5–8 holds per m². Traverse walls work well at higher density, and kids' walls benefit from denser, lower placement. Leave empty T-nuts covered or plugged to protect the threads.
What bolt length do I need?
Measure the hold's bolt-hole depth in millimetres, add 18mm (plywood), then add 6–8mm for protrusion. Round up to the nearest available M10 bolt length. For example: 22mm hold depth + 18mm ply + 6mm = 46mm → use a 50mm bolt. If in doubt, go longer — you can always use a washer to take up slack.
Are Untamed Holds compatible with standard T-nuts?
Yes. All Untamed Holds use the standard M10 × 1.5 thread and are compatible with any M10 T-nut. We recommend 4-prong zinc-plated steel T-nuts for indoor walls, or stainless steel in high-humidity environments such as garages or outdoor covered walls.

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